How to Choose and Use Interfacing & Stabilisers for Bag Making

Let’s be honest – no one wants a floppy bag. The right interfacing or stabiliser for bag making makes a huge difference to your finished make. In this blog post, I’m sharing exactly how I choose and use them in my own bag making process.

If you've ever wondered which one to use, where to put it, or how to stop your bag creasing like mad after birthing – you're in the right place.

And if you want a handy printable reference, I've created a free cheat sheet with brand names, fusing instructions and quick comparisons – you can download it here.

Interfacing vs Stabiliser for Bag Making – What's the Difference?

Interfacing adds strength and durability to your fabric. I use it on the outer fabric and the lining.

Stabilisers give your bag its structure and shape – they help it stand up or stay firm. You’ll use these in different ways depending on the style of bag you’re making.

My Go-To: Woven vs Non-Woven Interfacing

For most bags, I reach for woven interfacing. It behaves like fabric, drapes nicely, and doesn’t hold creases – so much better after turning your bag right side out.

Non-woven feels more papery. It creases easily and holds those creases. I only use it for smaller parts – things like card slots or zipper facings where you want a bit of firmness but not loads of flexibility.

Fusing Tips That Actually Work

Fusing can make or break your bag, especially if you’re using domestic machines. Here’s how I do it:

For woven interfacing

• Temp: 170 °C

• Time: 10 seconds

• No steam

• I block-fuse before cutting – fuse the whole piece of fabric first.

For non-woven interfacing

• Temp: 150 °C

• Time: 8–10 seconds

• Use steam or Best Press

Block-fusing gives you the most consistent results. You won’t end up with wonky or warped pieces when cutting.

The Crease Test: Why Woven Interfacing Always Wins

Here’s something I always notice: when you birth a bag, if you’ve used non-woven interfacing, those creases stay. Even pressing doesn’t help much.

Woven interfacing? Just smooth it out with your hand or a quick press and it looks great again. That’s why it’s always my first choice.

Adding Softness: When I Use Fusible Fleece

Fusible fleece adds a lovely bit of softness without making your bag too rigid. Perfect for totes or softer shapes.

I apply fleece after fusing the interfacing. I use steam here – it helps it stick better. One tip: don’t include fleece in the seam allowances. It just adds bulk and makes it harder to sew or turn.

Foam Stabiliser – My Favourite for Structure

When I want more shape, I go for foam stabiliser – but I always use sew-in foam, not fusible. The fusible version can wrinkle or make seams bulky.

Instead, I “sandwich” the foam between layers of woven interfacing. That way, you still get the structure without all the drama in the seams. Applying the first layer of interfacing to my fabric (if it needs it such as cotton) then placing my foam which has been cut to size so than it is out of my seam allowances, I then sandwich with a piece of interfacing cut to the same size of the original pattern piece so that the foam is "sealed" in place.

Decovil Light & Heavy – What I Use Them For

Decovil Light gives a thin, leather-like finish and helps bags stand up. It’s great for panels or exteriors that need a bit of body.

Decovil Heavy is thicker. I use it for bag bases or if I’m making a very structured purse. I usually quilt it to keep it secure.

Both versions are non-woven, so they’ll crease if you’re not careful. Always use steam when fusing and let the pieces cool flat before sewing.

Again, keep it out of your seam allowances!

Swatch It! My Favourite Tip

This is something I always recommend – make yourself a little swatch library. Label each one with:

• What interfacing/stabiliser it is

• How you fused it (time, temp, steam)

• Where you bought it

It’s so useful. When you're trying a new project, you can just flick through and find the one that feels right.

Final Thoughts

There’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to interfacing and stabilisers. But once you understand what each one does – and how to use them – you’ll feel so much more confident in your choices.

Try different combos, keep notes, and don’t forget to download my free cheat sheet.

Let me know if you’d like a deep dive into foam techniques or swatch organisation in a future post.

Happy sewing and may your bobbin always be full

Deb x